Bay St. Louis, Mississippi

 This morning we woke up to beautiful blue skies and lush tropical foliage.    We arrived at the North Beach Camp RV Park on Vilano Beach (just north of St. Augustine, Florida) later than planned yesterday ( Friday).  

We were whipped.   The drive from Bay St. Louis, MS to Cottondale, Florida, went well.    Smooth driving except at the exit from Hitchin Post RV where we crossed some very lumpy railroad tracks.    We rocked so violently that the beautiful Magnolia blossom (the flower filcher had struck again....) ejected all it's stamen and promptly died.

before

after

 I-10 was beautifully manicured as we continued east and we enjoyed the patches of wildflowers thoughtfully scattered along the route.

It was a longer driving day than we usually try to do, through Biloxi, under Biloxi, and all was going fine until almost Jacksonville.

Signs on the highway warned of an accident ahead and that all lanes were blocked.     I consulted the map and we made a quick (well, quick is relative - it took us almost an hour to go 1 mile to an exit) change of plans and took surface roads east and around Jacksonville to Vilano Beach.....it was a long detour.

So, Bay St. Louis, Mississippi.     We were only there for a few days but we enjoyed the beautiful water views directly in front of Beluga.     The Silver Slipper Casino RV Park wasn't very full so we had a nice, quiet time.   We watched a family of Kildeer bathe vigorously in a puddle beside us and terns wheeling over the water.    We stood awhile and watched a Great Blue Heron try to choke down a fish that his eyes evidently told him he could eat, but was finding it easier said than done....

 We walked the empty beach, the water was bathtub warm.    It was very very hot and humid.

 We drove along the water to the lovely little town of Bay St. Louis. 

  We'd been there before so we didn't do much exploring.    We marveled at how high some of the remaining houses had been lifted or rebuilt.

Lots of empty space between homes, vacant lots and left over pilings testimony to previous hurricane devastation.

As you probably already know, food was on our minds and we visited two great places.    200 North Beach Restaurant and The Sycamore House had what we were looking for.    We tried to have  Royal Reds at the waterfront Blind Tiger but they were hosting a huge, very loud party so we opted for the quieter 200 North Beach Restaurant's porch.    A good choice.    Dave still had the shrimp so all was well!

 

Another day we had dinner at Sycamore House.    Once again, we chose to sit outside on their screen porch and, once again, had a wonderful meal.

While we were eating, a lovely young man strolled back and forth outside our table, making eye contact each pass.   He was still lounging there when we left so we spent a few minutes getting to know him.    His name was "Handsome".    

 

    

New Orleans!

 Today I sit in Beluga (in Bay St. Louis, Mississippi)  directly across from the Gulf of Mexico.   We're inside this morning because outside is rainy and thundery.     Nothing between us and the beach except a small road heading to the Silver Slipper Casino.  Sand and water and sky views through all Beluga's windows..... Ah.   

We left Bayou Segnette State Park yesterday, clouds of termite wings swirling around and flying off Beluga as we exited the park.  

our beautiful site 55

 Evidently our site was in the middle of a massive swarm of juvenile flying termites Sunday night.    We noticed when it became necessary to get out the fly swatter as we tried to watch television in the evening.    Neither of us had been outside since dusk, we had no idea how they got in, but there were definitely IN!    Fast forward to the next morning - our  black (outside) steps were covered completely with tan wings.    The ground was littered with wings.   Dave noticed several snuffle spots in the dirt edges of the grass, probably made by a very happy, and very full, Armadillo.   We understand that they come out at night to forage for insects and especially - termites!    burp.

 We pulled in the slides in preparation for departure and - wings fluttered around us.     As I followed Dave to the dump station I was enveloped in clouds of wings coming off Beluga's roof.     Phew!     Last night, as I was making dinner, Dave turned the overhead fan on and it ejected hundreds of trapped (and dead) termites into the Mississippi air.      I took no pictures, except one very blurry one for identification purposes.         New Orleans is a magical place to visit..... but it does have some unpleasant realities.  

Since this trip has been billed as "Food, Friends and Family", and since we have no friends or family there, the only reason for our visit was FOOD.     We've both been to New Orleans and its surrounding areas at least eleventeen times so we didn't do all the requisite sightseeing things.    No River Rd., no plantation tours, no Bourbon Street wanderings, no Jazz clubs, no museums, no gawking at the myriad street performers, no Voodoo shops or walks, no St. Charles Avenue streetcar, no walking the streets drinking Hurricanes, no bead purchases, etc.

We ate at some venerable spots, such as Mr. B's in the Vieux Carre, some out of the way places, such as Segnette Landing in Westwego or tiny Mr. B's bakery in Algiers (no relation) for beignets,  some new to us spots, as in Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar on St. Charles Avenue and a brand new, neighborhood spot, Tonti's Hand in Algiers Point.       We enjoyed our surroundings and appreciated all that is New Orleans.   We ignored the "rough edges", and stepped over the trash bags and suspicious liquids on some sidewalks.  

Here are a few pictures of what we saw as we took the Algiers Ferry into the French Quarter.    We walked the familiar streets from Canal to Jackson Square, Mr. B's restaurant for linner and then  out to the River and back to our waiting Ferry.

we wait for the Ferry to depart

I loved the painted wall in this ice cream shop

Mr. B's famous BBQ'd shrimp.   I wore a bib but managed to spray juice on Dave!

oh Dave

The weather was unsettled.    Hot and steamy with threatening skies all around.   We had had enough of crowds and dashing between raindrops so decided to check out another well known but new to us restaurant on historic St. Charles Avenue.     We could drive to it, find plenty of on street parking and be able to sprint back to the Jeep if the skies opened.

St.  Charles Avenue is at the heart of New Orleans Garden District.   It is a wide boulevard lined with huge live oaks and magnolia trees and beautifully landscaped Antebellum mansions.   We passed the gracious  buildings that house Tulane and Loyola.

  Fragrant Jasmine vines everywhere made it difficult for Dave to keep up with me as we walked to the Superior Seafood and Oyster House.

We finally made it and were seated in a nice window table.    We enjoyed watching the St. Charles streetcar sway by on the neutral ground in the center of the Avenue.  It is the oldest continuously operating street car line in the world and is iconic to New Orleans. 

    Lunch was delightful.  Shrimp, shrimp and more shrimp.   And, bread pudding - must have bread pudding.

One day we stayed very close to "home" and had linner at  Segnette Landing, just around the corner.

all gone......

We hoovered up our shrimp po-boy sandwich so fast I couldn't get a photo of it.   Take my word for it, delicious!     Outside, we saw a few local characters....

wonder why he's hiding in that bag?

Since we didn't have any bread pudding after our po'boy (to be fair, we did split the sandwich so we had just a tiny bit of room left), we found our way to the tiny Mr. B's bakery in Algiers.   I heard that they make beignets to order.....and beignets were still on Dave's "list".     It was in an old strip type plaza, next door to a "lively" bar with a group of men outside laughing loudly, joking and pounding each other on the back as they tried to drank their beer.      We decided to take our hot beignets back to Beluga to enjoy them.

For our final meal we sought out a small French restaurant in sweet Algiers Point.   It had just opened in November and we noticed it on our way to the Ferry on our first day.     It did not disappoint on any front.    Small, clean and fresh with white table cloths and blue striped napkins.  A no fuss menu, just a few well made items and four house wines to choose from - Red, White, Rose, and Sparkling.   A few French beers and mixed drinks, all served in the same type water glass.    Croque Madame (with a Duck egg) for Dave and Croque Monsieur for me with the requisite shoestring frites.    A great way to end our New Orleans food tour.

a great sentiment printed on the bottom of our check....

After lunch we strolled around the neighborhood, looking at the beautiful old shotgun houses and gardens.     Most were lovingly cared for but a few showed the ravages of the harsh, damp climate.

so sad to see the troubles this beauty has....

We came upon a typical Louisiana cemetery, St. Mary's, and wandered in to have a closer look at the unusual crypts.

We sat on the levee and watched the River traffic pass before calling it a day and heading home.    A wonderful end to a wonderful visit.

this ship passed us with music playing so loudly we felt sorry for nearby residents 

In case you think we only eat in beautiful places, here's a shot out my window as we ate lunch in Beluga on our way to Bay St. Louis.     Tires and plywood and oil cans floating peacefully in a muddy bayou...ahhhhhh